Every control on the unit, explained in plain English.
Front panel
Side panels
Knobs
Blue level / value knob (push-encoder)
The big dial. Turn it to make things louder or to change whatever number is highlighted on screen, and press it to turn the unit on or to say 'yes/enter'.
tip: When you're editing a parameter, this knob changes its value even faster than the + / − buttons — great for big sweeps.
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Large main rotary encoder used for master volume and for scrolling/adjusting the selected value; pressing it powers the unit on and confirms selections.
A knob (X)
A hands-on tweak knob. Depending on the mode it might warp the current sound or push an effect harder — twist it live to add movement.
tip: In FX mode the A/B knobs become the effect's main controls, so keep a hand on them for expressive fade-ins and stutters.
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Assignable performance/parameter knob; controls the X parameter mapped to the selected sound and effect amounts, and edits menu values.
B knob (Y)
The second tweak knob, partnered with A. Together they give you two-dimensional, real-time control over a sound or effect.
tip: Knob moves can be recorded into the sequence during live record, so automate filter sweeps by just recording yourself turning it.
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Assignable performance/parameter knob; controls the Y parameter mapped to the selected sound and effect amounts, and edits menu values.
Sliders & faders
Fader
A big slider for smooth, dramatic moves — perfect for fading a part in or out or riding an effect during a drop.
tip: Because its throw is long, it's the best control for slow, musical fades that a knob can't do as smoothly.
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Long-throw assignable slider used for performance control such as volume rides and effect/parameter automation.
Display & indicators
Screen (LCD)
Your dashboard. It tells you what mode you're in and what number a knob is currently set to, so you're not guessing.
tip: Watch the level meter while sampling — keep the loudest part just below clipping for the cleanest recording.
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Dot-matrix display showing the active mode, parameter values, tempo, pattern/step position, sample info and level metering.
Jacks & connectors
3.5 mm line input
Plug in a phone, synth, or player to sample straight from it at higher quality than the mic.
tip: A clean line-in sample beats a mic sample every time when the source has a headphone/line out.
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Stereo 3.5 mm input for sampling external audio sources.
3.5 mm output (headphone/line)
Your main way out — plug in headphones or run it to speakers or a mixer.
tip: Watch the master level here; the output can be hot, especially with distortion engaged.
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Stereo 3.5 mm output for headphones or connection to a mixer/monitors.
USB-C port
One cable to your computer for power, moving samples, recording audio straight in, and sending/receiving MIDI.
tip: Use USB audio to sample your DAW or streamed sounds directly — no re-miking required.
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Handles USB power, data transfer, USB audio in/out, and MIDI to/from a computer or host.
Sync in
Lets another device be the timekeeper so the EP-133 follows its tempo.
tip: Use this to slave the K.O. II to a vintage drum machine or a Pocket Operator so everything grooves together.
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3.5 mm sync input for clocking the EP-133 from Pocket Operators, volcas, vintage drum machines, and similar pulse-based gear.
Sync out
Makes the EP-133 the master clock, sending its tempo pulses to keep other gear in time.
tip: Chain a Pocket Operator off sync out to expand your setup while the K.O. II stays in charge.
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3.5 mm sync output for clocking other devices from the EP-133.
Other
Built-in microphone
Record the world around you — tap objects, hum, or grab a sound off a speaker — with no cables.
tip: Get close to the source and keep the room quiet; the built-in mic picks up everything.
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Onboard mic for sampling sound directly into the unit.
Built-in speaker
Lets you hear your beat instantly with nothing plugged in.
tip: Mute the speaker (or use headphones) when sampling with the mic so you don't record feedback.
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Onboard monitor speaker for playback without headphones.
Battery compartment (4x AAA)
Where the batteries go so you can play anywhere without a power supply.
tip: Only use matched, new batteries of the same type — never mix old and new or different chemistries.
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Houses four AAA batteries for portable, cable-free power.
What it is
A 128 MB portable sampler and beat composer with built-in mic, sampling, sequencing, and effects.
The teenage engineering EP-133 K.O. II is a 128 MB sampler and 'composer' (a self-contained beat-making groovebox). It's the bigger, more capable follow-up to the pocket-sized PO-33 K.O!. You record your own sounds into it — via the built-in microphone, the 3.5 mm input jack, or over USB audio — then trigger and arrange them on a grid of pads to build full tracks. It runs on 4x AAA batteries or USB-C power, so it works on a table, on stage, or on the couch.
Sonically it leans punchy and lo-fi-friendly: clean when you want it, but with built-in distortion, filter, a compressor, and 'punch-in' performance effects that let it get gritty and aggressive fast. Sounds are organized into four groups (A, B, C, D), each holding twelve pads, so you can keep drums in one group, bass in another, melodic bits in another, and so on. A built-in step sequencer records what you play (live) or lets you place hits step-by-step, and Song mode chains your patterns into complete arrangements.
It's aimed at anyone who wants to sketch, finger-drum, sample-flip, and finish beats without a computer — while still syncing to and controlling other gear via sync jacks and MIDI (over USB). Think of it as a workstation that fits in a backpack.
First session: get a sound out of it
- 01Power it up: install 4x AAA batteries (watch the polarity marks) or plug in USB-C, then press the large blue level/value knob to turn the unit on.
- 02Bring up level: nudge the master volume up (the blue knob / fader) so you can actually hear it through the built-in speaker or headphones.
- 03Audition sounds: press SOUND, then tap the twelve numbered pads to hear what's loaded. Use the group buttons A, B, C, and D to switch between the four banks of twelve sounds.
- 04Set a tempo: press TEMPO and turn the value knob (or use + / −) to dial in a BPM. Turn on the metronome (via SHIFT) if you want a click.
- 05Record a beat live: press and hold RECORD then press PLAY to start the sequencer rolling, and finger-drum the pads in time — your hits are captured into the pattern loop.
- 06Tidy it up: if your timing is loose, apply Timing Correct (quantize) so hits snap to the grid, and use ERASE to remove mistakes.
- 07Sample something new: press SAMPLE, choose your source (built-in mic or the 3.5 mm input), record a snippet, then trim and assign it to a pad.
- 08Add character: press FX to reach delay, reverb, distortion, filter and more, and use the A/B knobs to dial effect amounts; grab Punch-In FX for instant live stutters and mangling.
- 09Build a song: once you have several patterns, use MAIN / Song mode to chain them into a full arrangement.
How the sound flows
A sound starts as a sample — either recorded live (mic, line input, or USB audio) or loaded from the factory content — and is stored on one of the pads. When you hit a pad, that sample plays back through its own per-sound settings: trim points (where the sample starts/ends), an amplitude envelope (attack/decay), pitch and time controls, and two assignable performance parameters mapped to the A (X) and B (Y) knobs. Each pad lives inside one of the four groups (A–D), which act like instrument tracks. All groups feed a single main mix bus, where the master insert effects live — delay, reverb, distortion, chorus, filter, and compressor — followed by the live Punch-In FX 2.0 performance layer. The fader and the A/B knobs let you ride levels and effects in real time. From there the signal reaches the master output, which is sent simultaneously to the built-in speaker, the 3.5 mm headphone/line output, and USB audio out to a computer.
Questions owners actually ask
How do I turn it on and off?+
Press the large blue level/value knob to power on. It also serves as your master volume and value dial. To power off, hold the appropriate SHIFT combo (or hold the knob) as indicated on screen. If it's plugged into USB-C it will draw power from there instead of the batteries.
What's the difference between live recording and step sequencing?+
Live recording (press RECORD, then PLAY, then finger-drum the pads) captures your performance in real time, including how hard you hit if velocity is on. Step sequencing lets you place hits one grid-step at a time using the pads as step buttons — better for precise, programmed patterns. Use Timing Correct afterward to snap loose live playing to the grid.
How do I record my own sample?+
Press SAMPLE, choose your source (built-in mic, the 3.5 mm line input, USB audio, or resample the unit's own output), optionally pick a lower sample rate for a grittier tone, then record. Trim the start/end, and assign it to a pad. Use CHOP to slice longer samples across multiple pads.
How are sounds and patterns organized?+
There are four groups — A, B, C, D — and each group holds twelve pads, so you get twelve sounds per group. Treat groups like tracks (drums, bass, melody, etc.). The sequencer records patterns, and Song mode (in MAIN) chains patterns into a full arrangement.
Can I sync it with my other gear?+
Yes. Use the 3.5 mm sync in/out jacks to clock to or from Pocket Operators, volcas, and vintage drum machines. For MIDI — controlling the K.O. II from a keyboard, or sequencing external MIDI gear — use the USB-C connection. The manual has step-by-step how-tos for syncing two K.O. II units and various Pocket Operator setups.
How do I make it sound gritty and lo-fi?+
Two tricks: record samples at a lower sample rate under SAMPLE, and lean on the built-in distortion (and compressor) in the FX section. The Punch-In FX 2.0 add live stutters and mangling on top. Committing a heavily-effected part bakes that character in permanently.
Why do my pads not respond to how hard I hit them?+
Velocity sensitivity is a setting you enable (see 'enable velocity sensitivity' in the How To section). Once on, softer hits are quieter and harder hits louder, which makes finger-drummed parts feel much more human.
What does 'commit' do and when should I use it?+
Commit renders your live moves and effects into a fixed sample, locking in the sound and freeing up resources for more processing elsewhere. Use it once you're happy with a heavily-processed part so you can reuse the effects on something new — just remember it's a bake-in, so keep a copy first if you might want to change it.
The official manual — captured from the manufacturer's web manual.
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Ask anything about the teenage engineering EP-133 K.O. II — “how do I sync it to my DAW?”, “why is there no sound?”, “what does the weird button combo do?” — and the AI answers from the official manual.