Every control on the unit, explained in plain English.
Front panel
Knobs
WOW
This is the slow, drunken pitch wobble that makes tape sound like tape. Turn it up and your notes gently bend and sway in an unpredictable way. In Classic Mode this knob becomes LP, a low-pass filter cutoff instead.
tip: Around 10 (fairly low) is the sweet spot for a nuanced, not-overpowering sound. Push it high for the feeling of struggling machinery and melted tape. Flick DRY to UNITY and raise WOW for a beautiful chorus.
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Sets the depth of slow, smooth, random pitch modulation — the classic tape wobble, like an unpredictable vibrato.
VOLUME
This is your overall loudness for the effected sound. Straight up is the same volume you put in; max makes it twice as loud, handy for pushing an amp. Note: if you've turned on ramping (the auto-movement feature), this knob stops being volume and becomes the speed control for that movement instead — your volume setting is remembered.
tip: To adjust volume while ramping is active, hold down the left footswitch and turn this knob.
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Sets the output level of the wet (effected) signal. Noon is unity gain, fully clockwise boosts by 2x. When ramping is engaged this knob instead controls the speed of the automated movement.
MODEL
This is your tape library — a rotary selector that changes the 'flavor' and tone coloring of the tape machine. Fully counterclockwise is OFF (no EQ coloring, unfiltered). From there: positions 1-3 are VHS (three generations of a decaying VCR, each a copy of a copy), 4-5 are Portastudio cassette 4-tracks (5 is played at half-speed), 6 is a camcorder, 7-8 are Dictaphone voice recorders, 9 is a cheap toy recorder, 10 is a Walkman-style player, 11 is a broken imaginary deteriorated tape, and 12 is a reel-to-reel with brittle tape.
tip: Different instruments sound dramatically different on each model — go through them one by one. In Classic Mode, roll this (as LP) counterclockwise to remove highs and darken your tone.
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Steps through a library of 12 tape-machine models plus OFF, each with its own EQ profile derived from frequency-analysis of real hardware. In Classic Mode it becomes LP, the cutoff of a resonant low-pass filter.
FLUTTER
Where WOW is a slow lazy wobble, FLUTTER is fast nervous shivering. It sits steadily in the middle and feels more like a texture than an obvious effect. It makes both the pitch and the loudness twitch quickly.
tip: Turn it up, then back it down just until you stop noticing it — that's the sweet spot for realistic, subtle vintage character. A tiny bit of FLUTTER is a secret ingredient even when using Gen Loss as an overdrive, EQ, or chorus. WOW and FLUTTER are best used together for a convincing tape sound.
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Sets the intensity of fast, twitchy, random modulation affecting both volume and pitch — the quivering, trembling texture of tape. In Classic Mode it's similar but affects pitch only (no volume modulation).
SATURATE
This is your tape overdrive/distortion. Much of the knob's range is gentle and 'felt but not heard' warmth, like a real tape recording. Crank it and you get gnarly, mis-biased, blown-out textures. Because it interacts with the MODEL EQ that follows it, the same saturation sounds different on each tape model.
tip: Turn everything else off and use this as a standalone overdrive. If it's too weak or too strong for your instrument, adjust the INPUT GAIN in the hidden options (DRY toggle) — the high-gain setting gives heavier distortion but can add digital aliasing on loud signals. In Classic Mode this becomes a sample-rate reducer for lo-fi crunch.
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Recreates magnetic hysteresis — the dynamic tape distortion that happens when a loud signal overwhelms the tape. In Classic Mode it becomes GEN (sample rate); rolling counterclockwise degrades audio quality and adds digital aliasing.
FAILURE
This is the 'falling apart' knob. Turn it up and your sound starts glitching in living, unpredictable ways — brief dropouts, little pitch jumps, and a crumbly rustling texture. It brings the machine to life (or to death). It's also the engine behind the moving stereo image when SPREAD is on.
tip: You can shape it: turn off drops or snags with the DROP BYP / SNAG BYP dip switches, and set the crinkle/pop loudness in the hidden options. For a clean, randomized stereo-splitter effect, turn on SNAG BYP, SPREAD, and MISO, turn the other knobs down, and your signal skitters left-to-right while staying clean. The crumbling 'effect' on your sound can't be fully turned off, but the audible crinkle 'sound' can be silenced. In Classic Mode (as HP), roll clockwise to remove lows.
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Gradually introduces tape malfunctions: drops (brief silences from the playhead losing contact), snags (abrupt pitch spikes from tape sticking), and crinkles/pops (shaky crumbling from worn, dirty tape). Also drives the stereo image when SPREAD is on. In Classic Mode it becomes HP, a resonant high-pass filter cutoff.
AUX ONSET (WOW knob in hidden menu)
Controls whether your AUX effect (like the tape-stop) snaps on instantly or eases in slowly. Turn clockwise for slow, dramatic, crawling transitions.
tip: A slow onset on the STOP effect gives a gorgeous gradual tape-slow-down.
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Sets how long the AUX effects take to set in. Further clockwise = longer.
HISS LEVEL (FLUTTER knob in hidden menu)
How loud the tape hiss is when NOISE is switched on.
tip: Keep it low for realism; crank it for a very dirty, degraded vibe.
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Sets the volume of the hiss component introduced by the NOISE toggle.
MECHANICAL NOISE LEVEL (SATURATE knob in hidden menu)
Controls the machine's rumble/hum. Straight up is silent. Turn right for electrical hum, turn left for VCR-style mechanical noise.
tip: Pick your poison — hum and VCR noise sit on opposite sides of noon, so you choose the character by which way you turn.
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Sets the volume of the mechanical noise from the NOISE toggle. Noon is zero; clockwise adds hum, counterclockwise adds VCR noise.
CRINKLE / POP LEVEL (FAILURE knob in hidden menu)
How loud the rustling crinkle-and-pop noises are. This is only the audible 'sound' of them — the way they process your actual notes can't be turned off.
tip: Turn this down if you want the failure texture on your notes without the distracting rustle sound on top.
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Sets the volume of the audible crinkle and pop sounds introduced by the FAILURE knob.
BYPASS TYPE (MODEL knob in hidden menu)
Decides what happens to your signal when the pedal is off. True bypass (left of noon) is a pure analog pass-through. DSP bypass (right of noon) runs your clean signal through the digital circuit even when off, giving silent, click-free switching.
tip: Use DSP bypass if switching pops bother you or you're using the digital dry-through in stereo setups; use true bypass for the purest clean tone.
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Chooses between true bypass and DSP (digital) bypass. Clockwise past noon = DSP bypass (clickless, digital thru even when bypassed); counterclockwise of noon = true bypass.
Switches & toggles
AUX
This three-way switch picks what happens when you stomp the left footswitch during a performance. STOP is a dramatic slow-down-to-a-stop, FILTER instantly opens up the tone by removing the model's EQ, and FAIL slams everything into chaos.
tip: There's a hidden fourth option, FREEZE (holds the last sound forever): set this toggle to FAIL, turn on both DROP BYP and SNAG BYP dip switches, and be in Classic Mode. Set how quickly AUX effects fade in via the AUX ONSET hidden option.
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Selects which performance effect the left footswitch triggers: STOP (tape-stop that slows the wet signal to a halt), FILTER (bypasses the tape model so signal passes unfiltered), or FAIL (maxes out failure aspects for total malfunction).
DRY
Controls how much of your original clean tone you hear alongside the tape effect. NONE is pure tape machine (fully wet). SMALL adds a touch of clean for a bigger, more detailed sound while keeping the tape dominant. UNITY matches your clean signal to the input level — best for chorus and lush modulation effects.
tip: Use UNITY when chasing chorus and 'sun-soaked' modulation sounds — it lets the wobble beat against your dry note. Note this is a different setting from the DRY TYPE dip switch and the input-gain DRY toggle in hidden options.
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Sets the level of your clean, unprocessed signal blended in. Three positions: NONE, SMALL, UNITY.
NOISE
Adds the constant background sound of an old tape machine — tape hiss plus mechanical hum/rumble. It brings authentic grime and atmosphere even when you're not playing.
tip: Dial the two noise types separately in hidden options: HISS LEVEL (FLUTTER knob) and MECHANICAL NOISE LEVEL (SATURATE knob) — the mechanical knob goes clockwise for hum, counterclockwise for VCR noise. You can also remove mechanical noise entirely with the HUM BYP dip switch.
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Introduces noise made of two elements: hiss and mechanical noise. Levels of each are set independently in the hidden options.
PRESETS
Lets you save and instantly recall two complete sounds. Middle = whatever the knobs and switches are currently set to; flick left or right to jump to a saved sound.
tip: To save to the right slot: hold the right footswitch for 3 seconds, then also hold the left footswitch for another 3 seconds. For the left slot, start by holding the left footswitch instead. The middle LED blinks to confirm the save.
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Three-position toggle: left and right positions each recall a stored preset, middle position is live (your current knob settings).
INPUT GAIN / DRY toggle (in hidden menu)
Tells the pedal how hot your incoming signal is so the saturation behaves right. Line level for synths/interfaces, instrument level for a normal guitar or bass, high gain when you want more aggressive tape distortion.
tip: If SATURATE feels too tame, bump this toward high gain; if you hear ugly digital fizz on loud notes, back it off.
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Three-position toggle matching saturation to your input: LINE LEVEL, INSTRUMENT LEVEL, HIGH GAIN. The right (high gain) position allows heavier distortion but can add digital aliasing on louder signals.
Footswitches
BYPASS
Your main on/off stomp. When off, your signal passes straight through untouched.
tip: You can switch to a clickless 'DSP bypass' (digital thru even when bypassed) in the hidden options via the MODEL knob — useful for avoiding switching pops, though it means your clean signal is always going through the converters.
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Turns the pedal's effect on and off. By default the pedal is true bypass with analog dry-through.
AUX
The performance stomp. Tap it to lock the AUX effect on/off, or press and hold to have the effect only last while your foot is down. Great for dramatic real-time moments like a tape-stop drop.
tip: Adjust how gradually the effect arrives with the AUX ONSET hidden option (WOW knob) — from instant to a slow crawl.
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Activates the AUX function selected by the AUX toggle (STOP, FILTER, or FAIL). Tap for on/off latching, or hold for momentary.
Both footswitches held
This is the secret gateway to a second layer of settings. Stomp and hold both switches, wait for the green LEDs, then tweak the knobs and DRY toggle to access hidden parameters, and let go to exit.
tip: You don't need to remember which knob does what — see the hidden options list. Changes only apply while you hold the switches down.
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Holding both footswitches until the LEDs turn green enters the hidden options menu for fine-tuning. Keep them held while adjusting, release when done.
Side panels
Switches & toggles
MISO
Turn this on when you plug in mono but want stereo out of two amps or a stereo rig.
tip: Combine with SPREAD (and in MKII mode, FAILURE) to turn a mono input into a moving stereo image.
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Mono In, Stereo Out — splits a single mono input into a stereo output image.
SPREAD
Makes the left and right channels behave differently for a wide, moving stereo picture. In the main mode the FAILURE glitches happen at different spots on each side; in Classic Mode you instead get gentle auto-panning that sways with the wobble.
tip: For a clean randomized stereo splitter, turn on SPREAD + MISO + SNAG BYP and turn the other knobs down.
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Engages unique stereo processing of the left and right channels. In MKII mode it creates a malfunctioning stereo image via the FAILURE knob; in Classic Mode it creates a smooth panning effect that moves with the WOW modulation.
DRY TYPE
Normally your dry signal stays perfectly clean. Flip this on and your 'dry' path also gets dirtied up by saturation and the tape model/drops (but not the wobble), so you can blend clean-ish but still colored tones into modulated sounds.
tip: See the Signal Flow diagrams — this changes where the dry blend branches off. Great for gritty chorus textures.
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When on, all effects except WOW and FLUTTER are applied to your dry signal too (routing it through saturation, model, and drops). Enables saturated, malfunctioning chorus effects.
DROP BYP
Turns off the brief silences/dropouts so FAILURE only crinkles and snags without the jarring gaps.
tip: Turn this on with SPREAD for more subtle stereo movement from just the crinkles and pops. Also part of the FREEZE unlock combo.
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Removes the drops (volume manipulation/dropouts) from the FAILURE knob's effect.
SNAG BYP
Turns off the sudden pitch jumps so your failure stays more tonal and controlled.
tip: Use with SPREAD + MISO for a clean random stereo splitter; also part of the FREEZE unlock combo.
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Removes the snags (pitch spikes) from the FAILURE knob's effect.
HUM BYP
Kills the mechanical hum/rumble while keeping the tape hiss, if you only want hiss.
tip: Handy when you love the hiss atmosphere but the hum is muddying your low end.
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Removes the mechanical noise from the NOISE toggle's output.
CLASSIC
Flip this and you basically have a different pedal — an imaginary, feel-based tape machine instead of the science-based MKII one. Several knobs become filters and a sample-rate reducer, and SPREAD becomes smooth auto-panning.
tip: Classic Mode is required to unlock the FREEZE AUX function, and it's great as a filtered chorus or lo-fi sample-rate reducer.
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Switches the entire pedal into Classic Mode, restoring the sound and features of the original CooperFX/Chase Bliss Generation Loss. Many knobs change function (WOW→LP, SATURATE→GEN, FAILURE→HP).
WOW / FLUTTER / SAT / GEN / FAILURE / HP / MODEL / LP (CONTROL dip switches)
These little switches let you pick which knobs the pedal will move on its own (or via an expression pedal). Flip on the ones you want automated.
tip: Engage BOUNCE + MODEL + RANDOM for the 'Tape Hopper' effect where each random landing is a different tape machine. If you plug in expression/CV but engage none of these, you control VOLUME by default.
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Select which knob(s) get automated by ramping/bounce or controlled by expression/CV/MIDI. Each switch corresponds to a parameter.
BOUNCE
Turns on hands-free continuous movement of whatever knobs you've selected — the pedal keeps sweeping them back and forth (or randomly) forever.
tip: With bounce on, the VOLUME knob becomes the speed control. Hold the left footswitch to still adjust actual volume.
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Engages continuous automated modulation of the selected knob(s), using either a triangle wave or a random wave (chosen by RANDOM).
RANDOM
Makes the auto-movement jump around unpredictably instead of gliding evenly — great for sample-and-hold style surprises.
tip: BOUNCE + FAILURE + RANDOM gives the 'Maintenance Phase' effect: ever-changing random amounts of malfunction.
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Switches the bounce movement from a smooth triangle wave to a random wave.
SWEEP
Decides which end of the movement your knob setting marks. If you're bouncing a filter, use the TOP setting so it never sweeps down to silence.
tip: For subtle filter sweeps in Classic Mode, set LP fairly high and use the top SWEEP so it stays audible.
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Sets whether the current knob position defines the TOP (maximum) or BOTTOM (minimum) of the automated range.
POLARITY (R / F)
Chooses whether the automated or expression-controlled sweep moves up or down. Used mainly for one-shot ramp moves and expression pedals.
tip: Ramp (as opposed to bounce) only moves once when you power on the pedal — set polarity to control whether knobs rise or fall into place.
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Sets the direction of ramp/external control movement — rising or falling toward the chosen position.
Jacks & connectors
MIDI/AUX jack
This is the input for either a MIDI connection or an external footswitch. Plug an external tap-switch here to control AUX from a tabletop setup — it takes over automatically. For MIDI you need a Chase Bliss Midibox adapter.
tip: MIDI unlocks control of literally everything, including the hidden options and dip switch functions — check the separate MIDI manual.
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A TRS jack for MIDI (via a Chase Bliss Midibox) giving deep control of everything including hidden options and dip switches, or for connecting a normally-open momentary external footswitch to control the AUX function.
EXP/CV jack
Plug an expression pedal or CV source in here to control the knobs with your foot or an external device. The pedal auto-detects the signal and hands over control.
tip: Warning: only feed it 0-5V — higher voltage or any negative voltage can damage the pedal. Use a TRS cable for expression, a floating-ring TRS-to-TS cable for CV. Plug in with no CONTROL switches engaged and you control VOLUME.
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Accepts an expression pedal (TRS cable) or a control-voltage signal (floating-ring TRS-to-TS cable). CV range is 0-5V. Controls the knobs selected by the CONTROL dip switches.
9V DC power jack
Where your power supply plugs in. It's a standard pedal-style barrel with the negative on the inside.
tip: Use an isolated, properly-rated supply that can deliver at least 250mA; this is a digital pedal and needs clean power to run right. There's no battery option.
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Power input requiring 9V DC, center-negative, approximately 250mA.
What it is
A lo-fi tape/VHS emulation guitar effects pedal that recreates the wow, flutter, filtering, and degradation of a worn-out VCR/cassette signal.
The Chase Bliss Generation Loss MKII ("Gen Loss" for short) is a digital effects pedal that recreates the sound of old tape machines — specifically the warble, hiss, saturation, and general beautiful decay you'd hear from a worn-out VHS tape, cassette deck, camcorder, or reel-to-reel. The clever idea behind it is that it takes each of the weird artifacts a tape machine adds to your sound and gives each one its own independent knob. So you can dial in exactly the kind of falling-apart you want, or turn any single element off entirely. Think of it as a VCR that's been taken apart and rebuilt so you control every broken piece.
What it sounds like ranges from subtle vintage warmth (a little pitch wobble, some tape hiss, gentle EQ coloring) all the way to melted, malfunctioning, barely-functioning machinery that skips, drops out, and crumbles. It's famous for gorgeous, nostalgic, wistful, sun-faded tones. Beyond tape emulation you can also use it as an overdrive, a chorus, an EQ, a stereo-widener, or a randomized stereo splitter.
The pedal actually contains two whole pedals in one. The main "MKII" mode was built by scientifically analyzing real hardware. Flip one dip switch and you get "Classic Mode," which brings back the sound of the original CooperFX/Chase Bliss Generation Loss — an imaginary tape machine invented purely by feel. It's stereo-capable, saves presets, and works with expression pedals, CV, and MIDI.
First session: get a sound out of it
- 01Plug your power supply in first: this pedal needs 9V DC, center-negative, drawing about 250mA. Connect your instrument to the INPUT jack (right side, labeled EXP/CV area on the right, MIDI/AUX on the left — the audio jacks are the standard in/out).
- 02For a basic mono setup, just plug guitar in and amp out — whatever goes in comes out. The default settings work for most players. If you have a mono input but want stereo output, turn on the MISO dip switch on top; for unique stereo processing turn on the SPREAD dip switch.
- 03Set the knobs to the gentle starting picture from the manual: WOW low, VOLUME around noon (unity), MODEL somewhere in the VHS range, FLUTTER low, SATURATE low, FAILURE low. Set the AUX, DRY, and NOISE toggles to taste (start with DRY on NONE or SMALL).
- 04Step on the right footswitch (BYPASS) to activate the pedal. You should now hear a nice, wistful tape tone.
- 05Explore by maxing out one knob at a time while leaving the others where they are — this teaches you what each element does on its own.
- 06Try flicking the DRY toggle to UNITY and raising WOW for a lush chorus. Then experiment with the different tape MODELs and the AUX footswitch (left footswitch) for performance effects.
- 07When you find a sound you love, save it: hold the right footswitch for 3 seconds, then add the left footswitch for another 3 seconds to store to the right preset slot (start with the left footswitch to save to the left slot). The middle LED blinks to confirm.
How the sound flows
Your instrument comes into the INPUT. First it hits SATURATION (the tape overdrive/distortion stage). Next comes WOW AND FLUTTER (the pitch and volume wobble). After that the signal passes through the MODEL stage (the EQ coloring of whichever tape machine you've selected), then through DROPS (the failure-related dropouts and glitches), and finally out the OUTPUT. Your clean (DRY) signal normally splits off right after the input and skips all the effects, rejoining at the very end — so your dry tone stays pristine. If you turn on the DRY TYPE dip switch, the dry signal instead branches off later (after saturation) and gets fed through the model and drops stages too, letting you build saturated, malfunctioning chorus sounds. NOISE and the crinkle/pop sounds are added into the mix as well. Because MODEL comes after SATURATION, the tape model you pick shapes and filters the distortion — each model emphasizes different parts of it. When the pedal is bypassed, by default your dry signal passes straight through with no processing (true bypass with analog dry-through).
Questions owners actually ask
How do I save and recall my sounds (presets)?+
The PRESETS toggle has three positions: middle is your live/current settings, and left and right each hold a saved preset. To save to the right slot, hold the right footswitch for 3 seconds, then also hold the left footswitch for another 3 seconds. To save to the left slot, do the same but start by holding the left footswitch. The middle LED blinks to confirm success. Then just flick the toggle left or right to recall your saved sounds instantly.
What's the difference between MKII mode and Classic Mode?+
MKII (the default) is the scientifically-modeled mode based on frequency-analysis of real tape hardware — it's what the whole main manual describes. Flip the CLASSIC dip switch and you get an entirely different pedal: a re-creation of the original CooperFX/Chase Bliss Generation Loss, which is a purely imaginary, feel-based tape machine. In Classic Mode several knobs change jobs: WOW becomes a low-pass filter (LP), SATURATE becomes a sample-rate reducer (GEN), and FAILURE becomes a high-pass filter (HP). SPREAD also changes from glitchy stereo to smooth auto-panning, and the hidden FREEZE effect becomes available.
Can I use this in stereo, and how?+
Yes. If you have a stereo input and output, it just works (stereo in, stereo out). If you have a mono input but want stereo out, turn on the MISO dip switch to split it. For a wide, moving stereo image turn on SPREAD — in MKII mode this uses the FAILURE glitches to differ between left and right, and in Classic Mode it gives smooth panning that follows the WOW wobble. For a clean randomized stereo-splitter effect, combine SNAG BYP + SPREAD + MISO and turn the other knobs down.
How do I get a good chorus sound?+
Flick the DRY toggle to UNITY (so your clean signal beats against the effected one), then raise the WOW knob. For a stranger, shivering chorus add some FLUTTER. If you want a grittier chorus, turn on the DRY TYPE dip switch so saturation and the tape model color the dry path too. This pedal is genuinely great at lush, sun-faded chorus tones.
What are the hidden options and how do I get to them?+
Hold down BOTH footswitches until the LEDs turn green — that opens the hidden menu. While holding, the knobs and DRY toggle control secondary settings: WOW=AUX onset speed, FLUTTER=hiss level, SATURATE=mechanical noise level, MODEL=bypass type (true vs. clickless DSP), FAILURE=crinkle/pop level, and the DRY toggle=input gain (line/instrument/high gain). Release the switches when you're done to lock in the changes.
What does the FAILURE knob actually do, and can I tame it?+
FAILURE introduces tape malfunctions: drops (brief dropouts/silences), snags (sudden pitch spikes), and crinkles/pops (a crumbly rustling texture). It makes the pedal sound alive and unpredictable. You can shape it: turn off drops with the DROP BYP dip switch, turn off snags with the SNAG BYP dip switch, and set the crinkle/pop loudness in the hidden options. Note that the way crinkles/pops process your actual notes can't be fully disabled — only their added audible 'sound' can be silenced.
Is there a hidden freeze/hold effect?+
Yes. FREEZE captures and holds the last-played sound indefinitely so you can process it with the pedal's effects. To unlock it: set the AUX toggle to FAIL, turn on both the DROP BYP and SNAG BYP dip switches, and make sure you're in Classic Mode (CLASSIC dip switch on). Then trigger it with the left AUX footswitch.
What power does it need, and can I use external control?+
It needs 9V DC, center-negative, about 250mA from an isolated supply (no battery). For external control, the EXP/CV jack takes an expression pedal (TRS cable) or 0-5V control voltage (floating-ring TRS-to-TS cable) — never exceed 5V or use negative voltage or you can damage it. The MIDI/AUX jack accepts an external momentary footswitch to control AUX, or full MIDI via a Chase Bliss Midibox, which unlocks control over everything including hidden options and dip switches. You pick which knobs external control affects using the same CONTROL dip switches used for ramping.
The official manual, for when you want the source.
Open in new tab ↗Ask anything about the Chase Bliss Generation Loss MKII — “how do I sync it to my DAW?”, “why is there no sound?”, “what does the weird button combo do?” — and the AI answers from the official manual.