Every control on the unit, explained in plain English.
Front panel
Knobs
Volume (Ramp)
How loud your recorded loop is compared to your live playing. Straight up (noon) means the loop matches your normal level; turn it right to make the loop louder. If you've turned on the built-in modulation feature, this same knob instead controls how fast that automatic movement happens.
tip: Leave it at noon for natural looping. Only when you activate internal ramping via dip switches does it become the 'Ramp speed' control — the printed 'RAMP' label above the knob reminds you of this dual purpose.
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Sets loop playback level: unity (no change) at noon, up to roughly 2x boost at maximum. When any ramping/expression dip switch is engaged, this knob is repurposed to control the speed of the ramp movement instead.
Layers
Think of your overdubs as a stack of pancakes. Turn this left to peel layers off the top (undo your recent additions), turn it right to put them back. It's great for removing a mistake or performing by dropping parts in and out. Important: it's cumulative — going back to layer 3 means you hear layers 1 through 3 together, not layer 3 alone.
tip: Because it's really Undo/Redo, if you rewind to an earlier layer and record something new, everything after that point is erased for good. Use this deliberately for arranging on the fly.
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Navigates through recorded layers by performing Undo (counter-clockwise removes layers) and Redo (clockwise adds them back). A new layer is created each time you stop recording. The knob 'goes to sleep' when idle so its physical position doesn't matter. Going back to an earlier layer and recording clears all subsequent layers.
Repeats
This decides whether your loop holds forever or slowly dissolves like a delay's echoes. All the way right means classic looping where nothing disappears. Turn it down and your layers gradually vanish as you keep overdubbing, turning Blooper into a delay-style or ambient wash machine.
tip: Keep it maxed for normal looping. If your loops keep mysteriously fading away, that's this knob — not a malfunction. Crank it down to use Blooper like a tape delay or for Frippertronics-style playing (remember it only fades while recording).
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Controls how quickly layers fade away, but ONLY while recording — a loop in playback never fades. Further counter-clockwise = faster fade; fully clockwise = no fade (infinite repeats/standard looping).
Mod A
This is the 'amount' dial for whichever effect you've assigned to the A slot. Noon is always the safe, do-nothing middle. Turning left does one thing (e.g. reverse, low-pass, slow down) and turning right does the opposite (e.g. forward, high-pass, speed up), depending on which modifier is loaded.
tip: Remember noon = neutral for every modifier, so you can always return to center to 'zero out' an effect without turning it off.
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Controls the intensity/character of the currently selected A-channel modifier (positions 1, 2, or 3, chosen by the left toggle switch). 12 o'clock is always the neutral zone; behaviors differ on either side.
Stability
This makes your pristine digital loop sound like it's playing off an old, slightly broken tape machine — pitch wobble, hiss, and softened frequencies. Off (fully left) keeps things clean. In Additive mode, each time you re-record with Stability up, the loop degrades a little more, so you can literally hear it decay over time.
tip: Set Stability to maximum and hit record in Additive mode to watch your loop dramatically fall apart pass by pass — a signature Blooper move. For clean loops, keep it fully counter-clockwise.
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Introduces analog/vintage character: wow, flutter, noise, and filtering. Fully counter-clockwise (minimum) bypasses it entirely for clean looping. Specifically tuned so that repeated Additive overdubbing gradually 'wears out' the loop like aging tape. Noise amount is configurable via the BLIP software.
Mod B
Same idea as Mod A but for the second effects slot. Noon is neutral, and the two sides of the knob give opposite versions of whatever effect is loaded. You can run A and B at the same time for layered mangling.
tip: Combining a Modifier on A with one on B is where sound-design chaos lives — but note some processing-heavy modifiers (Pitcher, Stretcher) can't run simultaneously with certain others.
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Controls the intensity/character of the currently selected B-channel modifier (positions 4, 5, or 6, chosen by the right toggle switch). 12 o'clock is always the neutral zone.
Switches & toggles
MIDI / EXT toggle (1 2 3)
This little switch picks which of three possible effects is loaded into the A knob. Flick it up, middle, or down to choose modifier 1, 2, or 3 from your current bank.
tip: Use the BLIP software to load different modifiers into these three slots (and use Bank A/B dip switches for alternate sets), so you can customize your palette of effects.
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A three-position toggle switch that selects which of the three A-channel modifiers (1, 2, or 3) is active. Its position corresponds to the modifier loaded in that slot (default set can be reconfigured via BLIP).
NORM / ADD / SAMP toggle
The most important switch on the pedal — it changes Blooper's whole personality. NORM = safe, predictable looping where effects don't get recorded. ADD = the wild mode where effects pile into the loop and evolve it. SAMP = quick, performance-style sampling where each recording replaces the last and you fire samples with the right footswitch.
tip: Your audio travels with you when switching modes, so build a loop in Additive, flip to Normal for clean overdubs, then flip to Sampler to trigger the whole thing as a one-shot.
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Selects the operating mode: Normal (effects heard but not recorded into overdubs), Additive (effects imprinted into the loop when overdubbing), or Sampler (record/replace/trigger samples with no overdubbing).
EXP / CV toggle (4 5 6)
The counterpart to the left toggle — it picks which of three effects is loaded into the B knob. Flick to choose modifier 4, 5, or 6.
tip: Pair complementary modifiers across A and B (for example a filter on one side and a pitch effect on the other) for musical, controllable combinations.
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A three-position toggle that selects which of the three B-channel modifiers (4, 5, or 6) is active from the current bank.
Footswitches
Left Footswitch (Record / Play)
Your main record button. First tap starts recording, second tap ends the loop and starts playback, and further taps flip between overdubbing and just playing. Holding it does a smart 'one-shot' that records exactly one lap of the loop then stops itself — perfect for stamping an effect over the whole loop cleanly.
tip: Hold-for-one-shot is the secret weapon in Additive mode: it lets you imprint a Modifier or Stability over exactly one full loop pass without having to punch in and out by hand.
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In Normal/Additive: tap to start recording, tap again to set loop end point, then tap to toggle between play and record/overdub. Hold for One-shot Record (records exactly one full pass then auto-stops). In Sampler: tap to record (clears old loop each time), hold for momentary record (records only while held).
Right Footswitch (Stop / Undo-Redo)
Your stop and rewind button. A quick tap stops the loop. Hold it to enter a special mode (shown by a green light) where you can undo and redo layers with your feet instead of the Layers knob. In Sampler mode this becomes your 'fire the sample' trigger.
tip: The Undo/Redo foot menu duplicates the Layers knob, letting you perform layer changes hands-free. While in that menu, no other commands work — hold the right switch again to get out.
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In Normal/Additive: tap to Stop; hold to enter the Undo/Redo submenu (green LED lights) where tapping right = Undo and tapping left = Redo, hold right again to exit. In Sampler: tap to Trigger/Retrigger the sample, hold to activate/deactivate looping (green LED shows one-shot trigger mode).
Both Footswitches (Delete)
Press both switches at once to wipe everything and start fresh. It was made deliberately awkward so you won't trigger it by accident — but there's no confirmation, so it happens instantly.
tip: There's no undo for delete, so be certain before you stomp both. To just rewind rather than erase, use the Layers knob or Undo menu instead.
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Tapping both footswitches simultaneously immediately and permanently deletes the current loop.
Side panels
Switches & toggles
Ramping/Expression dip switches (Layers, Repeats, Stability, Mod A, Mod B)
These tiny switches decide which knobs can move by themselves (built-in modulation) or be controlled by an expression/CV input. Turn on 'Stability', for example, and you can have it slowly sweep up over time, or ride it with a pedal.
tip: Combine with Sweep and Polarity switches to shape exactly how each knob moves. Great for evolving, hands-free loop transformations.
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Flicking any of these to ON puts that knob under automatic internal ramping or external CV/EXP control. Multiple can be active at once. With internal ramping, the Volume knob becomes the ramp speed control.
Bounce dip switch
Chooses whether the automatic knob movement travels to a new spot and stays there, or keeps rocking back and forth forever like an LFO.
tip: Use Bounce for oscillating, seasick tape-warble effects; leave it off for a one-time slow build.
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Sets ramping to continuous back-and-forth movement rather than the default 'ramp and hold' (which moves once and stays).
Random dip switch
Instead of a smooth sweep, the assigned knob jumps to random positions — good for unpredictable, generative results.
tip: Assign Random ramping to a Modifier knob for ever-changing glitchy textures that never repeat the same way.
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Turns the ramping movement into random stepped values that change precisely.
Wiggle dip switch
Keeps the automatic movement subtle and narrow instead of sweeping the full range — for a light shimmer rather than a wild swing.
tip: Use Wiggle on Smooth Speed for a delicate vibrato/chorus-like wobble on your loop.
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Limits the range of ramping movement to small adjustments, similar to conventional gentle modulation.
Sync dip switch
Locks the automatic movement to your loop's length so the modulation always happens at the same spot in the loop — rhythmically tight and repeatable.
tip: Turn this on for musical, tempo-locked movement instead of free-running drift; use the Ramp knob to pick how many loop-lengths the sweep takes.
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Syncs the ramp speed to the loop length so movement lines up with the same part of the loop every pass. Once active, the Ramp (Volume) knob selects a subdivision or multiple of the loop length.
Sweep dip switch
Decides whether the automatic movement travels upward toward max or downward toward min, starting from wherever you've set the knob.
tip: Pair with Polarity to precisely dial in the direction and endpoints of any ramped knob.
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Sets the ramping range: (T)op sweeps from the knob's position up to maximum; (B)ottom sweeps from the knob's position down to minimum.
Polarity dip switch (Rise/Fall)
Flips the direction of the automatic sweep — starting at your setting and moving out, or ending up at your setting.
tip: Experiment with Sweep + Polarity combos; they give four different sweep shapes for expression and ramping.
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Sets whether the movement starts at the knob position and moves away from it, or moves toward the knob position.
Dry Kill dip switch
Silences your live, direct sound at the output so you only hear the loop — useful in the studio or in effects loops where the dry signal is handled elsewhere.
tip: Essential when running Blooper in a parallel/aux setup or a mixer's send so your dry tone isn't doubled.
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Stops the dry (unprocessed) signal from passing through to the output, leaving only the loop.
CV Clock dip switch
Tells the CV jack to listen for an external tempo/clock instead of controlling knobs, so your loops lock tightly to a drum machine or sequencer.
tip: Use this when playing with electronic gear so your loop length snaps perfectly to the beat rather than free-running.
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Changes the EXP/CV jack from knob modulation to clock-sync mode. When engaged, pressing the footswitch arms recording, but recording only starts/stops on a detected pulse, and playback stays synced to avoid drift.
Play / Dub dip switch
Chooses whether Blooper jumps to playback right after your first loop, or keeps recording so you can immediately pile on another layer without a gap.
tip: Set to Dub for ambient music so the tails and trails of your first pass flow seamlessly into the next layer.
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Sets what happens after you set the initial loop's end point. Play (default): the loop starts playing back. Dub: recording continues straight into overdubbing the second layer.
Bank A dip switch
Swaps out the three effects available on the A toggle for a different pre-loaded group, expanding your effect choices.
tip: Combine bank switches with BLIP customization to build your own curated collections of modifiers for different songs or moods.
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Engages an alternate bank of A-channel modifiers, replacing the default trio with a complementary set (customizable via BLIP).
Bank B dip switch
Same as Bank A but for the B side — gives you a whole second set of three effects on the B toggle.
tip: Use both bank switches to effectively multiply the modifiers you can reach without opening the software mid-session.
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Engages an alternate bank of B-channel modifiers, replacing the default trio with another set (customizable via BLIP).
Jacks & connectors
IN jack
Where your guitar (or the pedal before Blooper) plugs in.
tip: Blooper records whatever hits this input, so any pedals before it in your chain get captured into the loop as part of your dry sound.
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Mono 1/4" instrument input. Accepts your instrument or the output of preceding pedals.
OUT jack
Where you connect to your amp or the next pedal. Both your live playing and your loop come out here.
tip: For studio use, engage the Dry Kill dip switch to send only the loop out this jack, keeping your dry signal on a separate path.
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Mono 1/4" output carrying dry signal (unless Dry Kill is engaged) plus the processed loop.
MIDI / EXT jack
A do-two-things jack on the left side. Plug in a MIDI adapter to control Blooper from a MIDI controller, DAW, or clock; or plug in a simple external footswitch to trigger recording remotely (handy for tabletop use).
tip: An external momentary footswitch takes control automatically with no setup — perfect if you use Blooper on a desk instead of the floor.
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A 1/4" TRS jack that accepts either MIDI (via a Chase Bliss Midibox to convert 5-pin MIDI to TRS) for automation/clock/custom footswitch expanders, OR a normally-open momentary external footswitch that automatically takes over the left footswitch's functions.
EXP / CV jack
Plug in an expression pedal or a modular-synth CV signal here to control Blooper's knobs with your foot or an external source. You choose which knobs it moves using the dip switches. If you pick none, it just controls Volume by default.
tip: Assign expression to Smooth Speed or a Modifier for dramatic real-time tape-warp performances. Flip the CV Clock dip switch to sync recording to an external clock instead of modulating knobs.
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A 1/4" TRS jack accepting an expression pedal or control voltage. CV can automate the knobs (default) or act as a clock source when the CV Clock dip switch is engaged. Which knobs respond is chosen via the left dip switch bank; with nothing selected it controls Volume with Rise/Bottom sweep behavior.
What it is
The Blooper is a boutique, modifier-based looper pedal that lets guitarists record, layer, and creatively manipulate loops in real time.
Blooper is Chase Bliss Audio's "bottomless looper" — a deceptively simple-looking blue pedal that records and layers your playing, then lets you mangle those loops in ways most loopers can't. At its most basic, it works like any standard looper: press a footswitch, play something, and it repeats. But Blooper's real personality comes from two channels of swappable effects called Modifiers (things like pitch shifting, reversing, stuttering, chopping) plus a Stability control that ages your loop like a worn-out tape reel. The magic trick is that in Additive mode you can record those effects INTO the loop, piling them up and letting the sound evolve, decay, or completely fall apart over time.
First session: get a sound out of it
- 01Power on the pedal (standard 9V center-negative supply) and plug your instrument into IN (right side) and your amp/interface into OUT (left side).
- 02Set the center toggle between the footswitches to NORM (Normal mode) so effects behave predictably and won't get baked into your loop by accident.
- 03Set Volume (top-left knob) to noon for unity/no boost, turn Repeats (top-right) fully clockwise so loops don't fade, and turn Stability (center) fully counter-clockwise (off) for clean looping.
- 04Tap the left footswitch once to start recording, play a phrase, then tap the left footswitch again to set the end point — your loop now plays back.
- 05Tap the left footswitch again to overdub another layer on top; tap it once more to stop overdubbing and just play back.
- 06Tap the right footswitch to stop the loop. To try the effects, engage a Modifier with one of the buttons on the bottom of the pedal and tweak MOD A or MOD B.
- 07When you want to erase everything and start over, tap BOTH footswitches at once to delete.
How the sound flows
Your instrument plugs into the IN jack on the right side and comes out the OUT jack on the left. Your dry (unprocessed) signal passes straight through to the output unless you engage the Dry Kill dip switch. Meanwhile, Blooper records what you play into its looper. On playback, the loop passes through the two Modifier channels (A and B) and the Stability circuit before reaching the output — so those effects color what you hear. The crucial distinction is WHEN those effects get baked in: in Normal mode the Modifiers and Stability sit after the looper like external effects and are NOT captured when you overdub; in Additive mode, anything you can hear (including the Modifiers and Stability) gets recorded into the loop the next time you overdub. The Volume knob sets final output level, and the two footswitches control recording, playback, stopping, and undo.
Questions owners actually ask
Why does my loop keep fading away on its own?+
That's the Repeats knob doing its job. Repeats causes layers to gradually fade — but only while you're recording, not during playback. If you want standard looping where nothing disappears, turn Repeats fully clockwise (maxed). Turn it down only when you want delay-style or ambient decay.
What's the real difference between Normal and Additive mode?+
It's all about whether effects get recorded into the loop. In Normal mode you can hear the Modifiers and Stability, but they act like external effects placed after the looper — overdubbing won't capture them, so your recordings stay clean and predictable. In Additive mode, if you can hear an effect, Blooper's recorder captures it too — so overdubbing imprints Modifiers and Stability into the loop, letting effects pile up and evolve. Additive is powerful but risky: effects can intensify fast and distort, since there's no safety limit.
How do I completely erase my loop and start over?+
Tap both footswitches at the same time to Delete. It was made a deliberate two-foot command so you won't do it by accident — but it happens instantly with no confirmation, so make sure you really want to wipe everything before stomping.
How does the Layers knob actually work — is it isolating individual layers?+
No, it doesn't isolate layers; it performs Undo and Redo. Think of your overdubs as a stack: turning counter-clockwise removes layers from the top, clockwise adds them back. Going back to layer 3 means you hear layers 1 through 3 together, not just layer 3 alone. Be careful — if you rewind to an earlier layer and then record, everything after that point is permanently erased. A new layer is created each time you stop recording, no matter how many times the loop has cycled.
How do I record an effect over my whole loop cleanly without punching in and out?+
Use One-shot Record: hold down the left footswitch. Blooper records exactly one full pass of the loop and then automatically stops. This is the go-to move in Additive mode for stamping a Modifier or Stability setting evenly across the entire loop without having to time your foot precisely.
Can I save my loops and get them back later?+
Yes — Blooper stores 16 loops with their layers preserved. Use the save toggle: flick left to Preview (scroll through slots with the footswitches, hearing a short audio preview and watching the arcade buttons blink), then flick right to Save/Load. Hold the left footswitch to Save (buttons glow solid red) or the right footswitch to Load (solid blue). Flick back to center when done. You can also download saved loops to your computer via the BLIP software.
Why won't Pitcher and Stretcher work at the same time as some other effects?+
Pitcher (which shifts pitch without changing speed) and Stretcher (which changes speed without changing pitch) are processing-heavy modifiers. Because they use so much of Blooper's horsepower, some other modifiers can't run simultaneously with them. If a combination seems inactive, this is likely why — try using them on their own.
My loop loses pieces when I slow it down while overdubbing — is it broken?+
No, that's expected. Blooper's loop length is fixed and never changes. So if you slow the loop down (with Speed) while overdubbing in Additive mode, the audio simply can't all fit in the fixed time window and some of it gets pushed out. It can feel disorienting at first, but it's a deliberate part of how Blooper works — and it has creative uses once you get the hang of it.
The official manual, for when you want the source.
Open in new tab ↗Ask anything about the Chase Bliss Blooper — “how do I sync it to my DAW?”, “why is there no sound?”, “what does the weird button combo do?” — and the AI answers from the official manual.